12 November, 2013

Gujarat trip and more, October 2013

Marie enjoyed hanging around in Ahmedabad.

We spent a month galavanting around remote bits of the north-western Indian state of Gujarat (including out near the Pakistan border), less remote bits of Rajasthan like Jaipur and Delhi, and some positively un-remote bits of Kolkata.

Click here to see our extensive photo-blog (which will open in a convenient new window - but get yourself a coffee first... it's big).

Marie was on a personal quest to learn as much as possible about Indian block-printing, and I (as usual) was on the hunt for an elusive East India Company colonial ancestor.
 

05 June, 2013

Trip to Uttarakhand (Nainital, Haridwar, Dehradun, Rishikesh), April-May 2013

 Peter meets one of Nainital's former residents, fully house-trained (the tiger, not Peter).
It lived in one of the houses that belonged to my great-great grand-uncle in the 1870s.

Are we crazy? After having travelled to Sri Lanka last August, then India in January this year, blow me down if we go and DO IT ALL AGAIN!  Totally NUTS!!  But this time, admittedly, there were differences. Anna came with us to Sri Lanka in March, then Marie and I went to Uttarakhand in April, a northern Indian state we'd never been to before.

In Uttarakhand we spent a week at Nainital, a chilly hill-station in the foothills of the Himalayas, with the hope of finding evidence of the presence of my great-great grandfather from the 1870s. Not only did we find evidence, but (to our great delight) we found a lot of it.  Also visited a delightful new school being established in a small village an hour outside the state capital Dehradun. Between Nainital and Dehradun we met a lot of new friends and fine people.

Get the full Uttarakhand story and pictures here.
 

04 June, 2013

Sri Lanka trip, March 2013 with Anna


Marie explores the Law Courts at Galle Fort, southern Sri Lanka, a place doubtlessly familiar to her great-grandfather who was a Colombo attorney. We went there with our daughter Anna in March 2013. Also visited the Kandy elephant poo competition, a two-thousand year old airport, hunted wild animals and whales, and flew in a hot-air balloon.
See all the scoop pictures HERE!
 

06 April, 2013

India ...again! ...January-February 2013

Yep, we've been to India yet again - and nope, that's not moi in the photo (you can tell cuz the beard's the wrong colour). Been indulging ourselves in a little Hindoo-Voodoo out of Africa, attending the Jaipur Literature Festival for the third time, and beseiging sixteenth-century forts.
It can all be yours here (it will open in a new window for your convenience).

 

05 September, 2012

FunkyPix2's trip to Sri Lanka, August 2012

We're never short of surprises here in Chiangmai...
Welcome to Soi Auschwitz near our condo, for example...
 
...but inside the gates, it's all friendly and fuzzy.
   
It reminded us that we were about to visit Sri Lanka again (click here to jump to our travelogue). This was despite the moral decrepitude of its Rajapakse regime. As with the two photos above, there's a dark authoritarian side to Sri Lanka's personality, not the least demonstrated by ruthless repression of political opposition. A dozen journalists have been disappeared in the last year alone, and the leader of the opposition spent time in prison on what were clearly bogus charges. Plenty more examples at the Sri Lanka Campaign website.
  
Prime Monster Rajapakse, however, has his nose to the wind of public opinion. He is wary of the power of example set by the Arab Spring, and a mere three days after the backlash against Putin after the jailing of Pussy Riot, this sweet-talking benign little article appeared on the front page of a local newspaper, addressed to the Inspector-General of Police:
Scarf stained by blood of his own people?
 
If you trust what he says you might be a tad naive. Beware of snakes-in-the-grass. Sri Lanka's 'democracy' has a long way to travel before it matures. The social inequalities against which the Tamils were fighting are still there, evidence for which may be intuited from the following article in which the writer - obviously a Rajapakse mouthpiece -  berates the Tamils for daring to express their (democratic!) dissatisfaction with ongoing unfairness. This is not independent journalism, it's government stenography:
You can embiggen any picture by clicking on it.
 
To be fair, though, there was gross inhumanity on both sides during the 25-year civil war. Anyway, as with all visitors to Sri Lanka, we had to weigh up these moral issues, but decided to go anyway on the grounds that as Australian citizens we could talk with people and at least confirm that not all Australians subscribe to the heartless policy of the Coalition towards asylum seekers. And indeed, that we felt seriously embarrassed by both Gillard and Abbott. Have either of them ever met a Sri Lankan person for a chat over a bowl of curd and kittul?

Click here to read about our recent spin around Colombo, Kandy, Polunnaruwa, Anuradhapura and Galle.

25 July, 2012

Dear Diary: it's the dampish-and-not-too-wet-yet season in Chiangmai

OK I'm beginning to panic...mango and lychee season is coming to an end here in Chiang Mai. Guess we'll just have to fall back on emergency supplies of papaya, mangosteen, grapes, bananas, strawberries, custard apples, watermelon, purple figs, passionfruit, avocadoes, dragonfruit, kiwifruit, persimmons, pineapples, mulberries, sapodillas, jackfruit and durian ...plus the odd guava or longan (sigh).
This is just a brief catch-up on our latest exciting (legal) activities around Xiengmai and Huahin (yes, Huahin again!).  Not a heavy Wet so far this year, even though it sometimes looks promising.      
  
 Here, for example, is what is commonly known as a 'scattered shower':
 
 Now - continuing with the food theme - the latest Sticky-rice Burger with a finger-lickin' chicken-and-msg pattie, and other delicacies for when you're feeling a little squiddish:
 
WARNING: contains "pure evaporated cane juice"
 
...and of course it's just fine to install a hairdressing salon smack in the middle of a supermarket food aisle... well, isn't it? What could possibly be wrong with that?
 
Well yeah, food needs decoration to make it tastier:
 
...and there's colourful wine for the kids as well:
  
Then it was off in the Little Blue Bobble-mobile up north to Maesai because Nic needed to do a 'visa run', crossing over briefly into Burma (formerly 'Myanmar' :)  Stayed overnight at our usual thatched hut balanced on stilts over the river:
 
It rained hard all night, and the river rose spectacularly high and fast. Next morning, it was not possible for the usual crowds of illegal border crossers to wade accross. On a dry day, it's a very porous border indeed. Visa? What visa?
  Illegal? What am I saying? It's not possible for any human to be 'illegal'.
 
Chiangmai's scrambled egg trees are blooming:
 (photo sneakily stolen from Galen Garwood... thanky you, Galen):
 
...but they do seem to attract tiny Predator Drones: 
  The view of Mount Doi Suthep from our balcony.
  
 All that yellow probably made the local Redshirts feel uneasy, so they had a little strut around town, making a lot of noise with their Grateful Dead speaker-stack on a truck. They're upset because the Constitution Court just told them they couldn't single-handedly change the Constitution without a referendum. These guys don't want to understand democracy or the rule of law because they want their criminal leader (whose name begins with T) brought back and 'forgiven' for stealing billions of their own money. Huh?  They are an embarrassment to Thailand in the eyes of the world:
 
..and wouldn't you know it - as soon as we arrived in Hua Hin (the beach two hours south-west of BKK), who was the very first person we bumped into (in a fashionably sessee shade of red)?
The Thai caption reads: "Angel"
 
  For about 0.2 of a second I imagined this frothy kid's outfit on our granddaughter in Straya... but then, thankfully, the feeling passed:
 
We can reccommend the foodcourt at Tesco Huahin. This stall gets top marks for value and taste. $2 will get you a large and yumacious feed:
 
Hua Hin's seafood is to-die-for, cuz it's freshly caught and never frozen. Here's some of it at the KO Restaurant in the Huahin nightmarket, where $6 gets you a sizzling hotplate of the best and freshest spicy fried seafood ever. Get some before you drop off your twig:
'KO' is pronounced 'gor' and means 'island' - as in Ko Samui.
 
 Huahin's Scandinavian-Danish controlled real-estate market seems to still be doing OK, but we thought this was not a particularly auspicious spot to put an ad for a luxury condominium:
 
...and speaking of luxury, how's this for an expensive-looking chrome Thai-style gate with pretensions and false promises? You should see the fence! Yep, it's the Catholic Church at Huahin, where the church building is cunningly multi-roofed ...in fact, disguised just like a Buddhist Temple:
 
Back home again to Xiengmai to check on the progress of the new 8-storey building going up in front of Anne's cafe near the entrance lobby to our condo building. This funky pic was taken from the lift lobby on floor 14... What does it want, a cup of coffee or something?
 
...and a new shop display window:

They drive among us...

School bus in Thailand...


Finally, my usual 'Politics Postscript'...
 
First... Banksy's honest take on the Olympix:
 
 Second... an observation. Next door to us in Burma, things are alleged to be "normalizing" - if you choose to believe Americanized corporate hookers like Rupert Murdoch and his propaganda brochures like 'The Australian' newspaper.
 
In fact, things are FAR from what we think of as 'normal' for ethnic minorities like the Kachin, Rohinga etc, in fact most of the Burmese ethnic sub-groups ...except the Burmans themselves - the "aristocracy", in effect. During our five visits to Burma over the years we have observed both ends of Burma's social spectrum, but the most dodgy areas were carefully witheld from us... "Not allow go further, sir. Muss go back now".  Roadblocks prevent independent tourists from going to trouble-spots "for our own good". Yeah, right. Group-tour operators know not to bother.
 
Seveny-eight were killed in Burma's Rakhine State (mostly Muslim, near the border with India) just a few days ago in yet another episode of ethnic cleansing. I know only because I subscribe to local Twitter and sms feeds here in Thailand. However, the only thing that got to the mainstream News that day was the announcement of the huge new port at Dawei (Tavoy), near Rangoon. The Burmese know exactly how to use media smokescreens to distract Joe Public's attention.
Timing is everything.
 
It ain't over till the skinny lady sings.
(Same deal in Sri Lanka with the Rajapakse dictatorship).
 
The West is selectively blind when it comes to neo-colonial exploitation, and Burma is a seductively low-hanging fruit with plenty of resources and (above all) a non-unionized labour force that is willing to work for even fewer peanuts per day than Chinese workers. Unfortunately, few of the benefits and even less of the money/capital inflow will filter down to ordinary citizens, especially in the less-touristed and remote "no-go" insurgent areas where even Phillip Morris and Nike won't be allowed to build their sweat-shops.
 
You know who is going to benefit. T'is we who are fast becoming Burma's Big New Problem.
  
Corporations (ie, you and me) take by far the biggest slice, the Burmese military and fat-cat elite take a decent portion, and some among the Burmese middle-class will be handed a few symbolic crumbs whenever cameras are rolling:
STUPIDLY LETTING OTHER REGIMES CAPITALIZE
formerly known as SLORC
  
The Burmese elite 1% understand very well that once the process of 'opening up the country' has begun, greedy western corporations and politicians will smell big profits. They know that the last thing any lobbyist wants at this stage of the cut-throat game of Burmese 'Monopoly' would be to have to defend its corporate investments against accusations of human rights violations. So something has to be made invisible to the media (or "disappeared") - either the investments or the violations.
Go on, guess which.

10 April, 2012

Dear Diary: HELP! Chiang Mai is too polluted to breathe. Gotta escape!


The dots indicate where Mount Doi Suthep used to be.
 
After getting back from India, it was immediately obvious we wouldn't be able to stay in Chiangmai. The smoke pollution came even earlier this year. We lasted 2 days before evacuating.

A popular place for many Chiangmai smog refugees is the fishing-village-cum-tourist town Hua Hin, the beach south-west of Bangkok. The beach is pretty good, the sky blue, the air clear. It's not a den of crime like Pattaya or Phuket, although you could probably find some if you went looking, no doubt.
  
Like everywhere, there are scams for the unsuspecting - for instance, don't have anything to do with the tour/taxi agent Mr Ed at his tacky little desk on the corner of Naret Damri Road, near World News Coffee. It's usually next to the motorcycles in this photo at left.
   
Hua Hin's Scandinavian/Danish-controled real estate scene is a bit more expensive than Chiangmai, but for the 2 months you need to flee the smoke, it works out cheaper to take a contract on an apartment or town-house than to stay in a hotel. How can you afford it, I hear you ask. Simple answer: we simply can't afford not to - health is paramount, so we budget for time away each year in March-April. Gee, if Chiangmai can't control its pollution, it deserves to lose people and their cash. And we don't mind some time at the beach during the hot season anyway... a holiday from retirement :-)
 
 Some of the condos along Hua Hin beach flaunt themselves grandly as 'resorts', but really they're just condos with attached pool. Several are built in the profile of the prow of a ship. To their credit, they generally look after their little patch of beach quite well, some even raking it smooth each morning:
 Sometimes the 'Condo Rules' signs are fun, eg
"Skateboards are not allowed to play in the building".
 
After Chiangmai's smoke, it's cleansing to walk on the beach and trail the toes in the clear and comfortably-cool ocean, despite the occasional sea creature venturing out of its comfort zone:
   

 
 ...and we note that this year's unusual storms wreaked quite a bit of damage:

 
 And while we're on the subject of Climate Change, my predictions from 2007 that Bangkok is sinking and must be moved elsewhere soon are all coming true. Hey, Yingluck, if Bangkok is going to be re-located, can Chiangmai please inherit its Skytrain?

There's a slow collision happening, a struggle for co-existence between Huahin's traditional Fishing industry and the inexorable advance of Tourism. Here on the sandy front line, battalions of beach umbrellas and an army of aggressively-marketed sun-beds confront a stranded and defenceless fishing boat...
 ...and Tourism's proving to be the victor, hands down.
   
Kite-surfing's big these days (yep, we over-optimistic starry-eyed geriatrics tried it out back in 2010... oops):



 ...and, of course, when Santa Crore visits Thailand, he should paint his beard gold, put loads of whitening cream on, and come prepared for Thai Boxing. As he does every year. In April:

 There are still signs of the old Hua Hin, though, like this charismatic little bay cosying up to the town's tourist waterfront. However, the ricketty old fishing jetties have now evolved into restaurants and 'hole-in-the-wall" backpacker hostels which gently sway and creak whenever a high tide coincides with a heavy swell:
 
 FYI, here's an old photo showing the very same jetty in the days when it served as a massive squid-drying rack. These days, we haven't seen any boats as large as this one:
  
  Today the town's esplanade, just behind these jetties, looks like any other tourist-oriented street in Thailand, complete with its looming Hilton Hotel in the distance...

 ...except that instead of lanes ['sois'] running off to the side, you have a thicket of higgledy-piggledy jetties. This is free-enterprise architecture gone mad. Sadly, one day I can forsee the whole lot being demolished and subsumed under one large co-ordinated modern re-development. Some of the wooden stumps look as if they're already approaching their use-by date. See it while you can:
 
A few fishing boats, relatively small, were still moored along the beach along from our condo...
   
 ...but no longer in the same numbers as in 'Songkrans Past':
  
  These days, to the north of Huahin at Cha-Am, the shoreline is dotted with huge condo buildings. Not so in the past, with its sandy foreshore of she-oaks, villages and palms:
 
...and oh yeah, I forgot... there are some bits of the beach like the following 'khlong' [drain] outlet which are not quite (shall we say) 'pristine', but tourist operators bravely persist in the hope that some people won't notice the dodgy smell. Dogs do enjoy snoozing there, though, as you can see... and hey, it's a cool spot to park your boat where people are less than likely to interfere with it:
(No, it's not a big surfing beach like those along the Andaman Sea)
  
 In spite of this, I have to say that Hua Hin has the best quality seafood I've tasted anywhere, even prime Australian seafood at many times the price. And Thai chefs sure know how to prepare it. Before you drop off your proverbial twig, may we suggest you sample the exquisite French seafood buffet at the Centara Hua Hin, or (for a far more budget-friendly price) the KO Seafood Restaurant in the Huahin Night Market. Seafood to dine for. QED.
 
This was the view of the beach and ocean from our table at the Centara seafood BBQ, with the green neon lights of fishing boats dotting the distance:

 One old favourite restaurant is still the one we nickname the 'Brown Restaurant' near the night market area, although it has become a little jaded over the years. On the ground floor of an old teak building on a street corner, it developed many years ago as an amalgamation of street cart food vendors who collectively needed a space for customers to sit down to eat. The food is still largely prepared by the street vendors who trundle their carts into position at about 6pm when the place opens its doors. Foreigners hardly ever eat there unless they venture in with a Thai spouse, preferring to patronize the posh jetty restaurants and pay three times the price for inferior food. Good quality, genuine Thai food, mâi paeng, but this time we went, the Songkran crowd overwhelmed the staff and things weren't so good:
 The KO Seafood Restaurant in the Night Market is even better these days.
      
  The notice in the loo at the Brown Restaurant... in case you missed the point.
 
 While we were waiting for our meal, a Thai football team (pron: 'Fooseborn Tim') pranced in a stylized way down the main road chanting slogans while wearing pink and holding hands in a human chain. Supporters trotted alongside waving flaming torches. Can't quite see the Brisbane Broncos doing that along Queen Street, somehow...
 
While we were in Hua Hin, there were several small earth tremors further south near Phuket. Looking at the photo in the above tweet, I'm beginning to feel less safe. Since then, scare-mongers and other seismological experts have tried to claim there's going to be a giant quake which will cause the entire island of Phuket to disappear beneath the briny... the Atlantis of Asia. Yep, I'm off to buy some Water-Wings.
  
 Yep, it's on this year, I'd say. He's coming ba-a-a-a-ck! None other than Mr Thaksin 'Squareface' Shinawatra, Thailand's self-exiled criminal fugitive ex-prime monster, popped in to the Hua Hin night-market for a surprise visit. At least he wasn't wearing a red shirt. He wouldn't dare - Hua Hin is a mostly monarchist town because it is the location of the King's summer palace on the beach, just to the north of here. Our condo security man quipped: Thaksin mâi dii for Thailan.  Mâi chawp.  Thaksin's T-shirt (yes, Made in China) mockingly reads something to the effect that he needs the help of Thai people, the unspoken bitter joke being the worn-out trousers:
This year, Thaksin didn't appear on the Forbes list of the world's 1226 billionaires, probably because he had embezzled most of his money from the Thai people. He became "unusually wealthy" while in office, the usual Thai jargon for "corrupt". Yet the Redneck poor, his rural victims who suffered most, now want him back as their leader... duh.
 
 This from Wikipedia, which glosses over Thaksin's human rights record of more than 2500 extrajudicial street murders during his "War on Drugs" (which, incidentally, his Redshirt supporters want to revive):
The Thaksin government faced allegations of corruption, authoritarianism, treason, conflicts of interest, acting non-diplomatically, and muzzling of the press. Thaksin was accused of tax evasion, lèse majesté (insulting King Bhumibol), and selling assets of Thai companies to international investors. Independent bodies, including Amnesty International, criticized Thaksin's human rights record. Thaksin was also charged for concealing his wealth during his premiership ... The Assets Examination Committee froze Thaksin and his family's assets in Thailand, totaling 76 billion baht ($2.2 billion), claiming he had become unusually wealthy while in office. Thaksin and his wife had declared assets totaling 15.1 billion baht when he took office in 2001, although he had transferred many of his assets to his children and associates before taking office ... Thaksin was accused of concealing shares by transferring Shin Corp shares to his drivers and maids. Thaksin tearfully told the Constitutional Court that it was an honest mistake before the Court acquitted him from the charges.
Thaksin's disorganized step-niece Yingluck Shinawatra, propelled into power as the proxy prime minister, is having a tough time, and probably can't wait to get him back into Thailand to take over the reins again. Here's an extract from a tweet indicating she was having yet another bad day in office...
 
Enough! Politics, get thee gone!
 
We briefly had to go to Australia on a mission of sad family business. While there, we visited Anna and Stuart, and (as is our intractable habit) went walking along various Adelaide beaches.
I saw two derros begging at Glenelg:
   
  They sample exotic local Australian (ie, Italian/Greek/Lebanese) food, prepared by the Refugees and Boat-people who comprise earlier generations of Australians:
Two Boat-people sampling tucker prepared by other Boat-people.
Other times they pick really Ozzie dishes - like Pizza, Yiros, Kebabs, or Fried Rice.
     
 ...and - finally! - evidence in Adelaide Central Market that some Strayans are beginning to realize that their stereotypical diet is severely inhibited and terminally boring:
  Then (with relief and a quick Gaeng Khiaw Waan curry) it was back home to our lovely Thailand...
 
This was a handbag shop in Bangkok - there was a small illuminated Buddhist shrine inside the tuk-tuk's windscreen. The auspicious numberplate alludes to the Buddha's Eightfold Path of Enlightenment - and, presumably, might (with any luck) invoke a decent day's takings in the shop till. Thailand just wouldn't be the same without glaring philosophical contradictions:
   For me, "shopping" is usually more about looking at the shops, not what's in them.
  
A furniture shop in Central World, the mall burnt down by Redshirts last year.
Looking at this stuff, I'm beginning to understand...
 
 Bangkok, apparently, is planning to remove its phone booths because mobiles have become the medium of choice. So I thought I'd photograph these booths in Chinatown in case they disappear forever. So you see, my dear grandchildren, this was what technology looked like in my day (and those funny little three-wheelers used to run on something called 'petrol'... remember petrol ?):
 
So - now that Chiangmai's air is blessedly beginning to clear at last (due to 'rain'... remember rain ?), we're planning on going back - but only after the Songkran festival. Here in Hua Hin, the water-throwing madness only goes on for one day, as opposed to four or five in Chiangmai (AKA "Songkran Central"). Most of the people of our age who we know, Thai and foreigner alike, bunker down indoors for the day.
 
That's ironic - Songkran actually began life as an alcohol-free festival to honour us, the elderly of society. In sober and respectful ceremonies, the young would gently pour symbolic water over the hands of their elders followed by the customary wai gesture (putting palms together). These days Songkran has morphed into Godzilla - uncontrollable street warfare with an avaerage of 35+ road deaths per day ...caused mostly by alcohol-affected young men on motorcycles:
Catharsis by any other name.
   
  Foam Party  (the foam machine is in the far right corner)
  
 We stocked up the apartment with food supplies and spent a quiet (foam-free and dry) Songkran day at home. Yep, it's possible to have way too much fun... *curmudgeonly grimace*  bah humbug etc.
 
Instead, Marie spent the day designing her new Summer Collection. Here's one of the predicted top-sellers, with its subtle hint of Songkran:
 
Sign this petition by the Breathe Campaign to put pressure on Chiangmai to improve its air quality (This link will open in a new window).